Cuttyhunk Fog, Red Brook Swimming and PTown Windswept Hair

Onward to Cuttyhunk
Midday Monday we said farewell to our Newport guests and headed to Cuttyhunk.  The wind had finally shifted to its normal SW direction and was swift as we initially motored out of Newport Harbor and then raised the sails and pointed to the southern tip of the Elizabeth Islands Cape Cod Massachusetts approximately 23 nm.

Entering Cuttyhunk

Mackerel skies

We have anchored in the majority of harbors this trip but for some reason passed up the opportunity to do so in Cuttyhunk.  The harbor was predictably sparse given that it is now officially off season. We grabbed a mooring instead and parsed out the $45 to the very friendly harbormaster. Then Linda anxiously awaited 1730 when she could radio for oysters.

VHF 72 to call for oysters from the Cuttyhunk Raw Bar

Linda has foregone oysters at every port during this trip waiting to be able to order from the Cuttyhunk Raw Bar.  It was worth the wait.

Bob strums and then some

Its no Taylor but still sounds lovely (not bad for a plastic guitar sez Bob)

Cuttyhunk at sunset

Good Morning Cuttyhunk
We have been extremely fortunate to have had spectacular weather this entire vacation. Almost every day has been sunny, warm and breezy.  Most evenings have been quite cool but Monday evening in Cuttyhunk was warm so we decided to lay out in the cockpit and watch the stars especially since there are no city lights anywhere nearby to dilute their brilliance. We both fell asleep in the cockpit (Bob way before Linda which is unusual) and awoke in the middle of the night to a layer of deep mist and heavy fog setting in. We were greeted Tuesday morning with a blanket of very thick fog.

Heavy fog the next morning as it is starting to lift.

Leaving Cuttyhunk Harbor in what we thought was lifting fog only to be hit by a heavy wall a few minutes later.

Sounding our one prolonged blast every couple of minutes as we motor carefully through the heavy fog keeping a good lookout as well as a close eye on the radar.  Then, after we raise sails and kill the motor, we sound one prolonged and two short blasts as good Captains do.

 Fog Begins to Lift - Time to Rig the Spinnaker

Fog lifts and winds were out of the south at 7-10kts - perfect for flying the spinnaker up Buzzards Bay en route to Red Brook

Poof!  Starboard tack 

Port tack now (Bill - We keep the tack line shorter now)

Narrow and shallow channel in to Red Brook Harbor in Pocasset MA

An unexpected and welcome lunch with fellow sailor and dear friend, Greg.  Check out Greg's adventures aboard his O'Day 23 Paio at Ruf Seas 

The Anchorage
The Anchorage at Red Brook is a strip that is parallel to Basset Island which is between 7 and 13 ft deep (Argon has a 6 foot draft). At low tide that night, we were swinging over a 7.1ft spot. On a full or new moon, this might have been a little tight and even resting on the bottom.

Leaving Red Brook
Low tide was at 08:00 and we wanted to hit the Canal for slack current at 10:30. So we planned our departure for 10:00. The depths were about the same as when we arrived the day before. We never saw anything lower than 8.5ft on the way out.

Examining the currents and tides 

A bit of work before pulling anchor.  Not a bad office, eh?

More beautiful skies

Sailing with only the jib as we enter the Cape Cod Canal

We let this rather sizeable rig pass us in the canal entrance channel

Under the Cape Cod Canal RR Lift Bridge

On to Provincetown
Our GRIB file readers showed that wind should have been north-west as we crossed the bay to Provincetown.We were expecting to be on a nice beam reach but instead were greeted with a north and pretty light wind that had us sailing as high as possible and still not quite on the course we wanted. As the trip went on, the wind built a little and lifted us to a better course so for most of the 23 nm, we had a fantastic sail. Then about 3 miles out, we were seeing true wind speed of 3kt. Not enough, so we made more hot water and electricity (ran the diesel).  We found a nice spot to Anchor in about 25ft of water near the Coast Guard Pier.

"Did You Just Get Off A Boat?"
Asked a girl named Suzan at the bar in 9 Ryder Restaurant when she looked at Linda's hair.  "Why, yes we did as a matter of fact".  Unfortunately we don't have any photos of this fashion faux pas. We had a nice dinner on land and walked around a relatively quiet (post-season/mid-week) Provincetown. Wind forecast was for zilch the next day so we planned to just stay put.  The next morning, we did some work (as in Job) and also attacked some mail and backed up paperwork that we brought along from home. We ventured in to town at near low tide and tied up at Flyer's dinghy dock.  At low tide, there is not enough room for the outboard to hang down as you reach the dock here.  So someone has to get out and pull the boat in.

No sense in both of us getting our feet wet.  Chivalry is dead.

Low tide in Provincetown. (not even an especially low one either)

The West End
Most people who visit Provincetown hang out in the busy town center. If you keep walking west to the wee numbers of Commercial Ave past the Coast Guard station, there is a whole nuther part that you shouldn't miss. There are some beautiful homes and a few Inns and Restaurants. But, there is also the huge salt marsh, jetty and you can begin to see the dunes. This is also the start of a great bike loop if you care to rent bikes for the day (and you should).

The Jetty and the salt marsh

 

After an invigorating walk and an awesome slice of pizza (Spiritus), we ventured back to Argon to swim in the warm waters and relax for the afternoon.  We are trying very hard to not think too much about this being Thursday of our last week of vacation.  Boy, has it been spectacular.

Linda's $5 floatie (and $2 gin and tonic)

After a final evening in PTown, we will do an extra long arch to Manchester-by-the-Sea tomorrow to pass through Stellwagen Bank and try to catch glimpses of whales.  We look forward to meeting up again with Josh and Sharon Friday night.

Newport, Cannibals, and Miniaturizing Argon

Jamestown Distributors = Thumbs Up
Our last blog entry ended with us happily awaiting a new water pump from Jamestown Distributors.

Jamestown Distributors kindly offered to deliver our new water pump to Dutch Harbor Boatyard (we were anchored in the harbor).  However, when we connected with the boatyard, they were very displeased that squatters would think it was ok for them to accept a delivery.  Instead, we waited at the dock ourselves to receive the package.  The boatyard guy kept saying what a nice guy he was as long as we rent a mooring for $50.

Linda continues to try to make progress learning blue tasks.  The hum of the new water pump sounded beautiful!

Exploring Dutch Island
After a successful water pump installation, we set out to explore the deserted Dutch Island.

Every summer we take sand shadow pictures.  This time we decided to do a stone shadow picture on the rocky shore of Dutch Island.

The only paths on the island were from wildlife.  We encountered lots of thickets and a few clearings and saw a couple of deer.  No sign of poison ivy :-).

Sunset over Dutch Harbor

Spinnaker North, Motor South 

The wind was perfect Saturday morning to open the chute and glide proudly northward under the Jamestown Bridge.  We are getting better at jibing the asymm but Linda still cannot rig it independently (yet).

Then we had to steer eastward and round Conanicut Island and head southward in to the wind towards Newport.  We decided to motor the short 8 mile leg instead of beating in to the wind.  Newport Bridge is pictured above.

Ah, Newport
Newport is a unique mixture of activity and arrogance.  We have gone there many times on land and water and always enjoy it.  Immediately after going under the Newport Bridge, we encountered dozens of impressive wooden sailboats setting up for a race.  The inner harbor is packed with boats with a heavy preponderance of sailing vessels.

This holiday weekend we splurged for dock space a second time during our LASVA.  We opted for Newport Shipyard along the bridge to Goat Island vs. one of the (louder) options in the center of town.  We quickly learned that Newport Shipyard is a haven for enormous and elaborate vessels - both sail and power.

Bob practicing holding his martini glass Newport style 

Below are just a few of the impressive vessels that surrounded us at Newport Shipyard.  Argon looked small and modest among her neighbors.

This is a 120' sailboat up on jack stands and stored under a huge boat lift

Heading out for another race

To fit in a bit better with our upscale neighbors, Bob took to spending a couple hours polishing the stainless steel.  Linda went to a spa.

Bob labors for a couple hours getting Argon shiny....

... while Linda went to a spa

Newport Visitors
We enjoyed connecting with quite a few friends during our two days in Newport:

Matt LeDuc with Latitude Yacht Brokerage came for a visit with his kids Zach and Sophie.  Matt sold us our prior sailboat, Fujin, and was immensely helpful in so many ways.  We had a puzzling conversation about the consistency of a large bucket of bacteria (huh?).   

Newport streets and restaurants were packed this last official Saturday summer night so we gathered on Argon for late night drinks with sailing friends Emily and Greg from Constitution Marina and their brother and sister-in-law who were all in town to see the Amy Shumer performance.  

We were thrilled to meet in person the new owners of our prior sailboat (Fujin), Melinda and Greg.  It was great fun to learn about their sailing history and future plans.  We all shared some uh oh stories also.  :-)   Both Melinda and Linda got to know Bill Shaw of New England Yacht Partners very well this past spring through the sale / purchase of Fujin and commissioning of Argon.  We missed connecting with Bill during this trip.

Jeff and JoAnne from Bob's hometown in upstate New York regularly come out to Boston since their daughter attends college in the city.  During this trip eastward, Jeff and JoAnne were able to make a detour post Boston logistics and good byes and join us in Newport overnight.

Jeff and JoAnne posing on Argon's foredeck

Cannibal Ramblers
We enjoyed dinner and more good conversation and laughter at Perro Salado.  Then we ventured in to the back room bar and were surprised at what we heard.  Cannibal Ramblers sound as unique as their name implies and well worth experiencing.  (I will let Bob insert more sophisticated music commentary here.)  They captured the attention of both Bob and Jeff (two music gurus) which says quite a bit.

Jeff and Bob

Newport weekend ended with breakfast at Belle's located right at Newport Shipyard

Visitors Week, Navigating Bridges,Work Day and Broken Water Pump

Visitor Week
We began what Linda is referring to a Visitor Week in that we are happily connecting with some friends and family in different harbors this week.

Linda's son, Josh, and his girlfriend, Sharon visit from Amsterdam (more below)

With Ree and Sammy in Stonington

Argon anchored in Stonington Harbor at dusk

Onward from Stonington to Mystic Up the River and Under (Through) Two Bridges
A sailboat + a bridge is always interesting.  To get to Mystic, one must navigate a little way north up the scenic Mystic River before encountering both a swing railroad bridge and a bascule bridge.  The RR bridge opens on request unless a train is approaching and the bascule bridge opens at 40 minutes past every hour (if there is waiting boat traffic).  Since we were approaching on a Tuesday late morning, there was very little boat traffic which was good since although we had planned our timing well and followed the instructions from both the harbormaster and cruising guide, we happened to catch the RR bridge just as not one, but two trains were approaching.  Thus we had to wait and circle for the first bridge quite a while unexpectedly, as well as then missing the carefully timed second bridge thus having to temporarily tie up for about a 45 minute wait.  Despite the unintended delays, we really enjoyed the travels up the Mystic River and will return again (but this time we would arrive at the RR bridge earlier than needed in case there is a train closure).

Mystic Railroad Bridge finally swinging open after we circle and hover waiting for two trains to go by

Safely through Mystic Railroad Bridge

Mystic River Bascule Bridge (road bridge through downtown Mystic) opens at 40 minutes past every hour but for only 5 minutes - thus Captains need to be ready and alert

Argon quickly following behind a couple other sailboats as the bascule bridge opens on our way south leaving Mystic

Close up view of the Mystic River Bascule Bridge - It is very well maintained and quite attractive.  One can see the huge cement counterweights in the upper part of the photo.

Josh and Sharon Visit the US!
Linda's son, Josh, moved to Netherlands this past May to be with his love, Sharon.  Both Josh and Sharon are spending a three week holiday in the Boston and New England area.  We were thrilled to host them overnight while docked at Mystic Seaport before they spend a few days camping in Connecticut and visiting with friends and family. We look forward to seeing them again back in Boston at the end of our sailing trip.

Enjoying the delicious cheeses that Sharon and Josh brought from Amsterdam

Sharon, Josh and cousins Sam and Morgan pose on Argon's deck

Josh and Sharon relaxing in the cockpit

Josh examines the jellyfish closely to see if they sting

We are so proud of Linda's nieces Sam and Morgan.  They are both embarking on terrific adventures.  Sam has enlisted in the Navy and leaves for bootcamp in about 10 days; and Morgan starts her university career at SCSU this week.  Congratulations Sam and Morgan!!

Mystic Seaport Museum Docking
Despite living in Connecticut for many years, Linda had never been to Mystic Seaport Museum before.  We were not sure what to expect but thought it would be cool to be docked on the museum grounds, well museum waters.  We loved it!  The dockstaff was A+, we felt almost part of the museum with visitors passing by and some stopping to chat about the boat, and the docked guests have exclusive private access to the museum grounds after the area closes to the public in the evening.  The town center is easily accessible by foot or dinghy.

Linda pretends to clean up "road apples" harking back to her stall mucking days in Higganum with Morici and friends

The impressive and recently renovated Charles W Morgan whaling ship from the mid 1800's

View up one of the masts of the Charles W Morgan

Argon on display at Mystic Seaport Museum

Bob loved that we were given a sign to hang from our rail "Private Yacht - Please do not board" as well as our special museum "yachtsmen" passes for the grounds

WFB
Among all the fun and adventure, we both are still working a bit also (Bob more so than Linda).  Wednesday of this week was one of our official, pre-scheduled working from boat (WFB) days.

Linda's office

Onward from Mystic to We'll Figure It Out Before We Hit the Head of the River
After a leisurely morning, we said farewell to our guests and headed south down the Mystic River not quite sure where our next destination would be.  After examining the winds, currents and distances, we opted for Dutch Harbor on the west side of Jamestown RI.  The wind was variable ranging between 8 - 20 kts but mostly out of the N.  We used a few different sail trims including reefed main, then unreefed, jib, then genny, then back to jib.  There was a high surf advisory for along the RI coast and we sailed in unusual swells in that they were sometimes 6 to 7 feet but with very long periods between thus still made for a comfortable ride.  Given the height of some of these swells, however, we were sure to stay clear of the several shoals extending from the CT and RI coast.

Large waves breaking as the surf passes over Watch Hill Reef quite a way off the coast

Swells were making their way up the West Passage of Narragansett Bay causing waves to crash against Whale Rock

We anchored in Dutch Harbor just as the sun was setting

Initially tried to anchor along Dutch Island but the rocky bottom prevented us from getting a good hold.  We found a comfortable holding on the east side along Conanicut Island

Plumbing Issues
While in Mystic we ran out of propane as we were making our morning coffee.  Not an issue as we have a spare tank and we quickly switched tanks.  However, we soon were having difficulty keeping a full flame on any of the burners.  Bob took advantage of Josh and Sharon having our car in Mystic and did some provisioning including taking our original tank to get refilled.  This solved the problem but we do not yet know what the issue with the other tank is.  We can address later.  The bigger plumbing issue came up as Bob was doing dishes shortly after we anchored in Dutch Harbor - water pump seemingly died.  Of note:  our toilet uses fresh water, not sea water, hence there were implications and urgency all around with not having a functioning water pump.

After close examination and some experimentation, Bob determines that the pressure switch is faulty and is able to get the water pump to work again - but only for a few minutes.  (Btw.... Bob worked with a similar type mechanical switch extensively many many years ago and indicated that these things normally are very reliable.)

Although it is just the pressure switch we need, the following morning we were luckily able to secure an entire new water pump from Jamestown Distributors, a local extensive marine supply warehouse, and they will deliver the new pump this afternoon to the boatyard near where we are anchored.  We will also send back this practically new water pump to the factory for a replacement (spare) or refund.

Not sure where we will be tonight yet.  But have dock space in Newport and plans for more visitors Saturday through Monday to celebrate the holiday weekend!  :-)