Saint Vincent - Fascinating!

Like many cruisers, we by-passed St. Vincent last spring on our southward journey to Grenada. Reports of security issues keep many away, especially charter boats. However as with many things in life, St. Vincent is complex; not all good or all bad of course. I am so happy we decided to park there for a bit and experience a little slice.

Captain Linda Perry Riera

Sailing from Bequia, Grenadines to St. Vincent

It was not straightforward to figure out when or where to go as the winds were up and with a northerly component making the sail from Bequia to St. Vincent more difficult than usual. And the popular Atlantic Rally to the Caribbean (ARC) was just arriving in the main harbor, Blue Lagoon, leaving no room. After investigating the handful of western harbor options, all with inconsistent reviews at best, we settled on Cumberland Bay. And oh what a find!

St. Vincent is similar in size and population to Grenada: about 130 square miles (almost 20 miles long) with a population of about 100,000. But its topography is more akin to Dominica with jagged, dramatic mountains (including the 4000 ft La Soufiere volcano), lush rain forests, rocky cliff-lined coasts, and scant sandy beaches.

Cumberland Bay is only about 20nm away from Bequia. But with 20+ kt E/NE winds forcasted, we weighed anchor at 0600 from Admiralty Bay, Bequia to get an early start before the winds and seas peaked. It was a short 6nm of exposed ocean and then the lee of St. Vincent quickly offered protection.

Approaching the dramatic coast of St. Vincent.

Morning sail with squalls in the open water north of Bequia, a bit south of St. Vincent.

Cumberland Bay, St. Vincent

A deep bay with shallow rocks reaching out from both the north and south sides of the entrance, a rapidly shallowing shelf, and a lush steep forest enclosure, Cumberland Bay is a unique oasis.

Cas, proprietor of the simple but welcoming beach restaurant Mojitos, greeted us as we approached to help with the tricky med moor style anchoring. We were instructed exactly where to drop the hook as the depths swiftly jumped from more than 100 to less than 10 feet. We then handed Cas about 100 feet of our line which he brought to shore and tied to a coconut tree to keep us from swinging in to the rocks.

Cas talked to us several times about his plan to organize and sponsor a Sailing Regatta around St Vincent in April 2020.  He seems very keen to do it and after sailing these waters, I can attest that it would be a pretty zesty ride! His facebook page may have more info as it approaches.

Argon remained comfortably nestled in Cumberland Bay during our two night stay despite the winds kicking up a party outside the bay. Our time in here felt like visiting someone's modest neighborhood where all their cousins gathered to hang out; completely non-touristy, everyone going about whatever they do normally leaving us to ourselves, but also making us feel welcome inviting us to join in if we wanted to.

Cas, proprietor of Mojitos, shows us exactly where and how to anchor as the deep bay quickly shallows along shore.

Enveloped in a very peaceful and beautiful anchorage. The winds were up a bit outside but one would not know it from in here.

There was usually only one or two other visiting sailboats in the entire bay.

Argon anchored in Cumberland Bay along side a couple of local fishing boats.

View from the bus ride to Chateaubelair.

Cas took us on a challenging hike through the land of his family - along a ridge with dramatic views and down a steep, muddy hillside.

Sweaty and muddy, we came upon Cas' dad, Evan, and one of his many brothers, Pie and stopped to chat for a bit. While there, we picked some sour sop from out back.

Along the hike, we gathered grapefruit, passion fruit, tangerines, lemons, sour sop, mango apples and basel.

Colorful, sturdy houses built in to the steep mountainsides.

View of Cumberland Bay from the roadside up the hill.

The fishing hut of Captain Guidi's (a colorful ex-pat from Italy). Captain Guidi is very passionate about his homemade lures. We bought a customized lure for trolling off Argon. Look forward to trying it out and bringing in a big one (or just any one).

Beach view and Mojitos restaurant.

Time to Move On

We enjoyed our final evening and prepared to depart before daybreak for a long sail to Martinique.

Impressive coconut tree climbing. We all stood back as the heavy coconuts came crashing down. What was best about this is that it is not for us, the lone tourists. It's just a few guys hanging out  wanting coconuts. And happy to share with visitors.

Venita, Rasta Joe and others all waiting for their serving of fresh coconut.

Kenny cuts open several coconuts for all of us.

First we drink the milk, then the entire coconut gets split open and we scoop out the soft layer of fresh coconut with a piece of the shell. Yum!

Nestled in Cumberland Bay for our final night. Prepare to depart at 0500 in the morning for the 12 hour sail to Martinique.

Passion fruit mojitos made by Venita at Mojitos beach restaurant. So happy we were able to experience this place briefly.

And We're Finally Sailing: Grenadines

After a month in Grenada getting Argon back in the water, completing major and minor projects, and a couple of false starts, we were finally able to begin the sailing part of this journey. And just in the nick of time to host Christian and Brittany!

Captain Linda Perry Riera

Carriacou

Although geographically part of the Grenadines, politically Carriacou is part of the country of Grenada. Only 12 square miles and with a population of 8,000, the size and simplicity of this island is a stark contrast to Grenada. Carriacou is a favorite of ours and we were ecstatic to finally be able to depart Grenada and sail to Carriacou on the last day of November.

Easy 18nm close reach sail on calm waters from Grenada mainland to Carriacou where we met up with Christian and Brittany.

Christian and Brittany joined us in Carriacou!

Argon is the lone sailboat anchored in Sparrow Bay on the west side of Carriacou

Outside Bogles Round House overlooking Sparrow Bay. Bogles is a charming set of stone cottages and a restaurant. This is one of the several unique places Christian and Brittany stayed at on land when not sleeping aboard Argon. They both enjoyed the experience of sleeping on board, but prefer land accommodations. :-)

My favorite harbor in all of the Caribbean is Anse la Roche. We enjoyed a private bbq with lobster hosted by Tim Roy and friends.

After the bbq, Christian popped the question on the beach!

Engagement celebration hosted by Tim Roy with a beach bbq on Anse la Roche. Congratulations to Christian and Brittany!

Argon anchored in Anse la Roche.

Exploring Carriacou on foot.

Overlooking Tyrrel Bay where Argon is anchored for the last day/night on Carriacou.

Grenadines

Sprinkled over a 40nm swath of ocean between Grenada and Saint Vincent, the Grenadines is a group of more than a dozen islands with a population of about 10,000. Union and Bequia are the most populated; several islands are non-inhabited such as the group of Tobago Cays. The Grenadines is one of my favorite cruising grounds due to the clear turquoise waters and relatively rustic Caribbean vibe.

Union Island

After several heavenly and celebratory days in Carriacou, it was time to check out of customs and immigration, weigh anchor, and set off for the country of St. Vincent and The Grenadines (SVG). We were high to the wind for the short 10nm sail but were able to coast in to Clifton Harbor at Union Island on a single tack.

Carriacou in the background as we sail to Union Island.

Christian and Brittany assuming the honor of hoisting the courtesy flag for the country of St. Vincent and the Grenadines after checking in to customs and immigration. (Not quite tan yet.)

We met up with Tim Roy's mom, Jenny for some fresh produce and fantastic mango-papaya-banana smoothies.

Dinghy parking lot in Clifton Harbor, Union Island.

Brittany passes a beer to the impressive kite surfer, Butter, as we watch his acrobatics from Happy Island.

Linda with Butter (after hitching a ride). His kite boarding show was spectacular.

Mayreau

Mayreau is a precious little island with less than 300 residents. Salt Whistle Bay is a magical anchorage (potentially my second favorite) overlooking a thin spit of sand allowing the constant easterlies through to cool whilst providing a barrier to the choppy seas.

Heavenly Salt Whistle Bay.

Many boat boys are eager to help cruisers anchor, moor, as well as offer fish, bread and their beach bbq services.

Local grapefruit, papaya, and passion fruit are breakfast favorites.

An easy swim or short dinghy to the pristine beach of Salt Whistle Bay.

Nadika was a lovely host to a delicious dinner of grilled snapper and chicken with plantains, salad and fried rice. She also provides laundry services.

Tobago Cays

A protected marine park consisting of five small islands surrounded by reefs, Tobago Cays is popular with cruisers and charter boats in this area and a truly unique destination. Although restrictions have been present for 25 years, the area remains threatened from the extensive usage. Several local boat boys regularly hold beach bbq's and sell fish but there is frustration among many locals that they are not able to benefit enough from this resource.

Five uninhabited islands of the Tobago Cays surrounded by reefs to the east providing some protection from the open ocean.

Small spit of beach a short swim away from where we are moored between Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau busy with sea turtles and rays.

Much current runs between these two islands. We hung on to the dinghy painter when swimming off the boat to keep from getting swept away in the current.

View from Petit Rameau overlooking the eastern reef and turtle sanctuary.

Peak of Petit Rameau, Tobago Cays.

Bequia

Pronounced bek-wee, the second largest island of the Grenadines is most definitely one of our overall favorite of the entire Caribbean. Admiralty Bay, the main anchorage, is a large western-facing bay with a ferry terminal, Port Elizabeth town center, water front stone walk, and stretches of gorgeous beaches. We were fortunate to set the hook here for 10 days last February as well as another week in December.

The sail from Tobago Cays to Bequia was robust (and some of our stomachs protested a bit). Winds were up in the high teens and low twenties and from slightly north of east (as usual). In this part of the Caribbean, sailing north means sailing to Windward (hence "Windward Islands"). Therefore, not only are you sailing quite high, but in the open water between islands, you are plowing into pretty good ocean swell. This was the most we have pushed Argon since the major gooseneck rework and new main sail and track were added. With reefed main and 90% Jib, she performed beautifully often soaring at 7.5 kts. Our confidence in the boat is returning and this was a great passage to push that forward.

The 25nm sail from Tobago Cays to Bequia was a bit challenging in 20+ kt easterly winds and 6 foot seas. We were close haul the entire way but able to reach the southwestern tip of of the island in less than 4 hours and in one tack.

 

Christian and Brittany on the sea walk from the town center to Prince Margaret Beach.

 

View overlooking the eastern coast during a walk across the island.

Koko (a waiter at Jack's Beach Bar) jumped in the water and collected West Indian Sea Eggs (aka White Sea Urchins) from the shallows to toss them out to deeper water so beach goers would not inadvertently step on them. Koko also broke a few open for some urchin sashimi. It was pretty yummy.

Although spiny, white urchins can be held carefully.

Island dogs abound in Bequia, like on most Caribbean islands. Bob made friends with several.

Mundane Boat Projects

After the many weeks in Grenada heavily occupied with major boat projects, Bob was relieved to find himself occupied with relatively basic boat chores. A dock line needed splicing and a couple of soft shackles weaved; we scrubbed Argon's waterline and the bottom of the dinghy. Water was delivered to us in the anchorage to top off the tanks and a bit of provisioning was accomplished. Another adjustment was made to the sail cover by a local canvas shop. The most major project all week was replacing a windlass switch.

Water delivery while at anchor.

Farewell to Christian &Brittany and the Grenadines

As our time in the Grenadines comes to a close, so does our time with the kids. After checking Christian and Brittany off our crew manifesto with customs and immigration, they will hop a ferry to Saint Vincent and fly back to the states. Bob and I can enjoy Bequia for a couple of more days before setting sail for Saint Vincent and beyond.

So happy to share our time exploring the Grenadines with Christian and Brittany!

And congratulations to the newly engaged couple! (Very tan now.)